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Brunneria species (Grass mantis) ootheca
Brunneria species (Grass mantis) ootheca
£62.00
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Ootheca incubation

Ootheca Identification

Bud Winged Mantis
Parasphendale Agrionina

Chinese Mantis
Tenodera A Sinensis

Thistle Mantis
Blepharopsis Mendica

Ghost Mantis
Phylocrania Paradoxa

Devils Flower Mantis
Idolomantis Diabolica

Indian Flower Mantis
Creobroter Sp.

Indian Rose/Violin Mantis
Gongylus Gongyloides

Dead Leaf Mantis
Deroplatys Sp.

Orchid Mantis
Hymenopus Coronatus

Spiny Flower Mantis
Pseudocreobotra Wahlbergii

Cryptic Mantis
Sybilla Pretiosa


Common Questions


Acontiothespis Concinna - Ant Mantis Caresheet
Brunerria Borealis - Stick Mantis
I would like to thank Evan for his wonderful caresheet. You can checkout his website at www.mantisphotos.com

 
 
     

Acontiothespis Concinna - Ant Mantis Caresheet

Appearance: this mantis lives to mimic ants, fire ants to be specific. The nymphs are incredibly fun to raise as they look exactly like ants, all the way down to the mandibles. As they get older, they gradually lose their bright red coloring and begin to sport green and brown markings. The mature adults are green in color and look nothing like ants. Females have small black and orange markings at the end of the wings and males have dark coloring along the entire wing.

Sexing: males are much skinnier than females and have long transparent wings. This species can be sexed after the 4th molt, they are too small and too skittish at any earlier stage. This is a small species. The males grow up to 1 inch long and the female will only surpass that by a few millimeters.

Accomodation: this species needs high humidity, especially for nymphs of all stages. Keep the humidity level at 80% to ensure proper molting. Temperature is not real important, but keep it around 30C (86F) and keep it slightly colder at night. And as always, colder temperature slows down the metabolism of the mantis and lengthens its lifespan.

Caging: keep the hatchlings in a small container lined with paper towel from bottom to top and keep this substrate continuously wet by spraying/misting twice a day. This ensures that they get proper humidity. I have kept them in both soil and paper towel substrate and have had more luck with the paper towel method. Also put lots of twigs and sticks in there for the mantids to climb, but do not overcrowd the container. Adults should be kept in a large environment at least 3x their length all around. Females should be separated as soon as they can be sexed, but males can continue to live together.

Feeding: this species needs no coaxing to eat. Hatchlings will readily tackle fruit flies by the second day and will continue to eat well until they molt. After the second molt, you may consider upgrading their food to the larger fruit flies (d. hydei), they will continue to eat normally and as adults, you can once again upgrade to house flies or crickets or anything else that they can catch. Make sure that there is plenty of food available, even if the mantids are full...females are more inclined to cannibalize if it's in their favor.

Molting: just like all mantids, they molt upside down when the time comes. The first molt comes after 9 days or so and the next molts can take up to 2 weeks. Nymphs raised together should molt out simultaneously. Nymphs will stop eating prior to molting and their abdomen will be swollen to the max. At this point, it is critical to maintain the humidity to prevent mismolts. During molting, it is very important to not disturb the mantid. Any disturbances (misting, moving the cage, etc) can ruin the molt and possibly doom the mantid.

Reproduction: after 2 weeks since their last molt, introduce the female into the male's cage and leave them alone. A mature male will react right away after catching sight of the female. He will then court her or jump on her back right away. After holding on (this could take hours), the male will initiate copulation by bending his abdomen down to connect with her's. Once the male is done, remove the him or the female to prevent any unintended cannibalism.

Ootheca: mated females will lay their oothecae from days to weeks after mating. The oothecae are very small and may contain up to 20 eggs. Females will continue to lay one ootheca every week or so. Keep these incubated at 30-35C (86-95F) with a very high humidity (85-90%) by misting the eggcases well everyday. After 4-5 weeks, the nymphs will hatch out and the raising process will begin.

Additional notes: I received my first eggcase from a contact of mine and thought it was too small to hatch, but lo and behold, 16 nymphs came out of it. But I raised them in a container with soil substrate and 13 nymphs perished before I switched to the paper towel method. The nymphs eat very well and can tackle prey that seems too large for them.
Unfortunately, I discovered that all 3 remaining nymphs are males. They are now L5 nymphs, but I have more hatchlings from more oothecae. The recent hatchlings were raised on paper towel and the only deaths occurred when I was away for a weekend. Hopefully this second batch will have females and if I can delay the growth rate from the first 3 males, I may be able to breed them...fingers crossed!
Bad news folks, all my surviving hatchlings turned out to me males...and "surviving" means only about 2-4 nymphs. Needless to say, rearing this species from hatchling stage is quite difficult. I think the biggest challenge was getting the ant-sized nymphs to eat. I *might* take them up again later, but for now, they're too much to handle and not much to show for my effort.

 

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