Gongylus Gongyloides
(Violin, Indian Rose Mantis)
Has to be the strangest of all mantids kept in captivity. Their cryptic looks have given them their famous name of taking the shape of a violin.
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As
suggested by the name, the Gonylus looks somewhat like a violin in shape.
The long prothorax stretches down, protruding at the sides, finishing
off with a slender, twig like neck stretching to the abdomen. They have
leaf like projections in the leg joints, helping the overall camouflage,
and similar projections on the end, and sides of the abdomen. The wings
cover the whole abdomen in males, however in females, the wings do not
reach right to the end of the abdomen. Sex determination is the usual,
8 segments for the male, and 6 or 7 for the female. Another sexual dimorphism
is the difference on appearance of the antennae. The males have more feathery,
split antennae, and the females long, thin and straight. Females reach
around 9-10cm, and males around 8cm.
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These tropical
mantids are in need of very high temperatures, considerably higher than
your average mantis. Good temperatures can range from around 30-35c, however
can stretch anywhere up to 40c! This can be hard to stimulate when living
on shelving, so it can be an idea to house in tank, with a spot light,
and sometimes a heat mat as well. If a lamp is used, place this on one
side of the enclosure, this way the mantis can alternate it’s temperature
by moving around the tank. Humidity is not essential, and only needed
to ease shedding, so keep at around 20-30% humidity, or spray 1-2 times
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A fairly large enclosure will be needed for specimens of L6/7 upwards.
Being a fairly long mantis, there must be enough height for successful
skin shedding. Failure to do this can result in the mantis becoming entangled
in its skin, and crippling the mantis. This is typical of the Gongylus,
due to its very cryptic shape, and projections around the body.
The Gongylus are a
sit-and-wait species, so they will rarely hunt for their prey. Put leaves
and twigs in the tank to stimulate its natural habitat, but also to add
interest to make it appealing to the eye. There must be a suitable surface
for the mantis to grip on to, such as a mesh or net lid. Gongylus are
very confident eaters, and will eat the majority of flying prey. You will
find they will not take greatly to ground dwelling insects, such as crickets,
locusts or worms. Not only will they not take to them, but feeding them
can cause checmical reactions when producing ootheca, where no foam will
be produced. Insects such as house flies, bees, dragon flies, damsel flies,
moths and butterflies are all good examples of food to feed the Gongylus.
By offering a varied diet, you will notice that each specimen will be
much larger, and will produce a much larger, more fertile ootheca. Do
be careful when offering prey, making sure that it will not be to large
for the mantis to catch, or consume. There have been many accounts of
live food eating the mantis, so any food which ash not been consumed within
a day or so, should be removed.
Ootheca can hatch
up to 30 nymphs, which is a relatively small amount n general. These can
be fairly hard to rear, needing a 35c in the day, and 20-25c at night.
They will need to be sprayed every day, maintaining a humidity of around
60%. After 2-3 days, the nymphs will readily feed on fruit flies (Drosophila
sp). Cannibalism will not set in, as the Gongylus are a communal species,
which can be housed together right through until death.
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By far one of the
most interesting of all cryptic species. Breeding the Gongylus can be
very rewarding, however the journey can be a hard one, with problems cropping
up with shedding of skin, especially when moulting into adult! Experience
of keeping mantids will certainly be needed before acquiring some of these
fine beasts.
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