Fruit flies (Drosophila
sp.) - Livefood
Rearing, breeding and buying fruit flies (drosophila sp.) livefood
Fruit flies (Drosophila sp) are an excellent source
of nutrition for many insects, such as hatchling mantises,
and other carnivorous insects. There are 2 main species,
readily available in captivity, the Drosophila Heidii
and the Drosophila Melanogaster. The D. Heidii are
the larger of the 2 species. For some hatchling mantids
of smaller species, these may be a little too large
to feed; so then you will use the D Melanogaster.
Flies
are mostly sold in cultures. A culture in a cup or
tub, with some laying medium, usually a pre-made recipe
if bought from a pet shop, however some private breeders
may use mashed potato, banana, other types of fruit,
or a bran/oat/ground fruit mix.
This will be the medium for the flies to lay their eggs
in, and will provide nutrition for the growing larvae. There
may also be a wad of cotton wool, or strips of a wood like
substance, curled up. This will provide a surface for the
larvae to pupate on, and hatch out. The larvae will also
swarm up the sides of the container, and on the lid.
When pupated, they need no further attention. If left in
a warm place, they will hatch out after about 6 days or
so. The warmer the culture is kept, the faster the pupae
will hatch.
When the flies emerge, you can offer them to what you are
feeding straight away. If you wish to keep a culture going,
then you should keep the culture tub in the container where
the flies are being fed. After a few days, when matured,
the flies will then start laying in the original culture
tub. If a lot of flies are offered, then it is likely that
the flies will breed, before they get eaten. When all the
flies have been eaten, remove the culture tub, and store
it in a warm place, for the eggs to develop, and pupate.
Thus, the fly cycle goes on.
The
fruit fly culture cycle
The
best temperature to keep the flies at is around 20-25c.
In these temperatures, the cycle will be at its fastest.
To slow the cycle down, simply cool the culture. To prevent
any mould, or fungal infections occurring, make sure the
culture is very well ventilated. Piercing small holes in
the side of the culture tub can do this. However, these
holes need to be small enough, so the larvae cannot squeeze
through.
A method that has proven successful is to use clear, plastic
tubs or cups, with no lid. As a substitute for a lid, a
piece of thin cotton like material can be fixed to the top,
using an elastic band, or something of the sort. This way,
the larvae cannot escape though holes in the side of the
tub, or through holes in what could be mesh, used as a lid.
Humidity does not need to be high when breeding Drosophila.
Depending on the mixture used, it is important that it doesn’t
dry out. If the mixture does look dry, then simply spray
some water in through the top, which will absorb down into
the mixture. Do not spray too much water in, as this can
drown the flies, and the pupae.
There
are various different culture mixtures that be easily made
at home.
There is one very easy option, which is usually used to
feed flies on mass. Get a large bucket, and put a few handfuls
of rotting fruit in it. Keep this in the corner of your
garden, or somewhere similar, and this will attract swarms
of drosophila. The fruit has to be rotting, as they will
not reproduce on fresh produce. The bucket should be covered
with a fair fine mesh, large enough to allow the flies to
enter, but to keep out any other pests, such as birds and
other fruit eaters.
Another,
smaller scale recipe is one that can be made easily indoors.
Mix a table spoon of sugar, with a cup of instant or mashed
potato, which is readily available from most supermarkets.
This can be put in any size cup, jar or tub. When added,
pour water in, that is half as deep the mixture that was
put in. Mix this, until you get a soggy medium. Then sprinkle
some dried yeast on the surface of the medium.
Just
cups, jars or tubs of rotting fruit can also be used as
a medium. Ripe bananas can also be used on their own. These
will not dry out, because as they rot, they release liquid.
As this is the case, it might be necessary to put in some
cotton wool, which will absorb the liquid.
In
all cultures, be sure that the cup, jar or tub you are using
is sterile. This way, you will not encourage moulding, and
other infections.