I would like to thank Evan for his wonderful caresheet. You can
checkout his website at www.mantisphotos.com
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Orthodera Ministralis - Newzealand/Australian Mantis Caresheet
Appearance:
this Australian native species takes on a blue-green coloring
from the day they hatch. Their prothorax looks slightly stumped
and gives the appearance of a slight shield. Adults have a
bright blue spot on the innerside of their catching arms.
They are known as aphid eaters in the land down under, but
they are not limited to that.
Sexing:
Females grow up to 4 cm long while males only get up to 3.5
cm. After the 3rd molt, 8 segments can be counted on the male's
abdomen while 6 on the females. In adults, the females have
a broader abdomen and the males have broader transparent wings.
The males fly very well and are very agile when it comes to
leaping far distances.
Accommodation:
this species of mantis relatively easy to keep. They like
a bit of a cooler temperature than other mantids. Keep these
around 25 C (77 F)…room temperature will be just fine.
Cooler temperature will slow the mantids' metabolism and give
them a bit of a longer lifespan. Keep their humidity maintained
at around 60%.
Caging:
their cage should be well ventilated with lots of twigs and
branches. They are relatively small so a medium sized tank
is enough. The general rule for caging is 3x the mantis' length
for the height and 2x for the width and length dimensions.
It is not recommended to keep these together.
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Feeding:
this species is a generalist feeder. Start out with fruit
flies for nymphs and move to small crickets, house flies, moths,
and larger crickets for larger nymphs and adults. These do not need
any further coaxing to eat. If they are hungry and they see something
crawling around, they will catch it on their own. Feed them as much
as it will eat in one day and do not feed it for another 2 days.
Watch their abdomen, if it is hugely inflated, then stop feeding
them. As for watering, mist nymphs lightly everyday and two to three
times a week for adults.
Molting:
a mantis will stop eating a few days prior to its molt. Mantises
molt about every 2 weeks as babies and the time in between each
molt increases as they get older…so their last molt into adulthood
can sometimes take as long as 3 weeks. It takes about 7 molts for
females and about 6 for males. To pair up a pair of male and female,
speed up the growth rate of the females while slowing down the males'
with cooler temperature and less feedings…once the female
has molted, speed up the male's growth to molt him out. During molting,
it is vital that you do not disturb them and also make sure that
the humidity is at a safe level…the suggested level is fine.
The mantis will hang upside down from a branch or the screen lid
and will sometimes shake or spasm violently. Then after a while,
it worms out of its old skin and will hang out to dry. Once it's
dried, it will resume eating and being its normal self.
Reproduction:
this species can be easy to breed. After 2 weeks since
their last molt, introduce the female into the male's enclosure
near him. A mature male will respond quickly. It could take hours
before the male does anything though. He will jump on her back and
hold onto her lower thorax. The female can be distracted with food
prior to this to make it easier on the male. While she is busy eating,
she wont be able to grab him as he mounts her. After a while of
holding on (this could take hours), the male will bend his abdomen
down to connect with hers and mating will commence.
Ootheca:
after two weeks or so, the females will be depositing her
oothecae. The oothecae are small and are about 1 cm or less. This
species can lay around 4-6 oothecae. Remove the females from the
oothecae or the oothecae from the females afterward. After 5 weeks
or so of incubation at 30 C (86 F) and 70% humidity, as many as
40 nymphs will hatch out. These can be fed on fruit flies a day
or two after hatching. They are quite small so fruit flies might
even be too big for them, but if they are hungry enough, they should
be able to catch them for themselves. Then continue to care for
them as this care sheet suggests.
Additional
Notes: I had 39 nymphs hatch out of an ootheca, but many
died due to some cannibalism, weaknesses, and other mysterious factors.
I now have 11 nymphs that are eating well and seem healthy...then
again, so did the other 28 nymphs before they died.
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