The
Idolomantis Diabolica, sometimes known as the "King
of all mantids" for the obvious reason; it's
beauty, size and rarity.
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This species is another one of the very many
flower mimics. With it's bright green wing case,
centred with a large, coloured, ocellus. With
leafy projections on the legs, and green/brown
body colouring, this species is a true master
of disguise. Both sexes possess fully grown
wings, covering the whole abdomen. Sex determination
is the usual, 8 segments for the male, and 6
or 7 for the female. Another sexual dimorphism
is the difference on appearance of the antennae.
The males have more feathery, split antennae,
and the females long, thin and straight.
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The Idolomantis requires a slightly more advanced
keeping than most species. Originating from
Tanzania, it would be exposed to very high
temperatures, likewise with humidity. In captivity,
we try to do the best to stimulate these conditions.
25-35C is the best temperature range to bee
keeping the Idolomantis, and any figures higher,
or lower, are not recommended. Spraying is
not required, however when young, occasional
spraying may help to overcome shedding problems.
This species has a very complex structure,
as with many other mimic species, which can
prove a problem when shedding. Frequent spraying
will soften the skin, making removal a lot
quicker, and easier. Having high temperatures
also helps when spraying, as all standing
water will be evaporated within a few hours.
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Being one of the largest of all species, the
Idolomantis Diabolica is a true beast. Due to
its size, the enclosure needs to be a big one.
For shedding purposes, the height of the enclosure
needs to be at least 3 times the length of the
mantis. Any shallower, then it could lead to
the mantis getting tangles in the exuvium. They
are not a very active species, so an overly
large enclosure is not necessary. They will
often spend days sitting in the same spot, either
as a form of disguise, or in a warm light.
Foliage must
be put in the enclosure, as after all, the Idolomantis
is a flower mimicking species. Silk plants are
the best form of foliage to use, as these are
100% free from any toxins. Also provide some
twigs, and other branches, for hanging purposes.
When kitting out the enclosure, make sure it
is not over crowded. It is best to leave on
side of the tank virtually free of foliage,
to provide room for the shedding of skin. When
adult, this does not matter, as the mantis will
not under go any more shedding of skin.
It is advised
to use a substrate, as for any exotic mantis
species. Not only does it add to the look of
the enclosure, but also it helps to keep humidity
levels high. The most effective substrate is
soil or peat. Also, a layer of compressed coconut
fibre is a great substrate, as this is very
clean, and you can be assured no form of pesticide
or any other harmful chemicals will be present.
This is especially good for the Idolomantis,
as they do require very high humidity levels.
The diet is
one of the harder aspects of keeping the Idolomantis.
They feed primarily on flying insects. Houseflies,
moths, butterflies, beetles, lacewings, and
any other flying insect available. They will
not take to ground dwellers, such as crickets,
locusts, mealworms, and the standard live food
that is readily available in the local pet store.
Not only does the mantis not take to these feeders,
but also they are unsuitable to use as a staple
diet, especially when breeding. There are chemicals
contained in these live foods (mainly crickets)
that stop the female from producing foam for
her oothecae, thus laying worthless masses.
Different sizes
require different sizes of food. From about
L4, they will readily take small houseflies.
Any smaller, they should be fed on fruit flies
(D. Heidii) A large female will be able to take
a hawk moth, but feeding gut loaded flies will
be the best option.
For gut loading the flies, there is a very simple
method. Keep the pupae in an airy container,
covered in a fine mesh lid. Keep the container
warm, but do not spray the pupae. As the flies
start hatching, lay pieces of kitchen roll,
soaked in warm water a honey mixture, on top
of the mesh lid. The flies will feed off this,
and after about 3 days of this, they will have
a suitable nutritional content to feed to the
mantis.
Wild caught insects will not need to be gut
loaded, as they will have had a natural gut
load in them already.
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It will always be know, the Idolomantis Diabolica
will be one of the most beautiful, well-loved
mantids in captivity. However, it really is
not one for the beginner. It has to be said,
one is lucky to successfully rear this species
in the collection, but until experience has
been built up from past species, attempting
to keep the Idolomantis, could prove a failure.
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